Cosmopolitan Colombo

The st­o­ry of Colombo is ve­ry much a tale of two cities. There is the Co­lombo of fast cars, glittering cas­inos, gourmet food and five-star hotels. Al­on­gside is the Colombo of small ka­des (sho­ps or eateries ow­ned by the same fa­mily for generations), romantic st­rolls, tradi­tional food and heaving buses.
But for the visitor, Col­om­bo provides an op­portunity to discover two very different worlds… in one city.

Ex­plore the cosmopolitan, das­hing side of Colombo in this section; and the traditional, bust­ling city in the segment that follows. Take your pick as to which suits your holiday plans better – and then take the plunge!
Colombo is compact and easy to travel arou­nd. Walking through the city in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat is a good way to understand the urban rhythm of Sri Lanka’s commercial capital.
You can choose to hire a car and driver for your stay, or there are radio-taxis that you can use to travel around. Buses within the city are plentiful, but conditions will take getting used to. A unique experience is a ride in the humble tuk-tuk (three-wheeler), the workhorse of the city. Being relatively small, it effortlessly negotiates the traffic.
The best place to start your day in Colombo is at one of the five-star hotels, where you can savour many wonderfully varied menus. Col­ombo is home to some of the finest hotels in South Asia – ranging from ultra-contemporary five-star hotels like the Hilton Colombo, Cin­namon Grand and Cin­namon Lakeside, to throwbacks from the co­lonial past such as the Galle Face Hotel (the oldest east of the Suez) and Mount Lavinia Hotel. There are new boutique hotels such as The Park Street Hotel and Casa Colombo too, and also a number of smaller B&Bs and guest houses for those who prefer more intimate surroundings.
Most of these hotels serve a special Sunday brunch, often accompanied by live jazz and unlimited champagne for those who are interested in a splurge. If you have less of an appetite, there are numerous cafés and pastry shops that can get you started by providing a decent cup of coffee and a fresh continental pastry.
After such luxury, and before the day starts in earnest, a perfect stop could be at one of the many spas that dot the city, where discerning customers enjoy numerous treatments in the soothing, sophisticated atmosphere of international-standard spas.
The most intriguing treatments and even Ayu­r­vedic treatments are available at the city’s spas.
Alternatively, enjoy a relaxing game of golf at the Royal Colombo Golf Club. Opened in 1879, the course is not only the first golf club in Sri Lanka, but also one of the oldest in the world. This 18-hole course provides an oasis of tranquil natural beauty and there’s a spl­endid clubhouse if you want to slake your thi­rst.
Amazingly, a railway line crosses the course, so golfers are forced to wait to make that drive from time to time – until, that is, a train passes by!
If shopping is your ideal way of spending the day, Colombo has many air-conditioned shop­ping malls like Crescat Boulevard, Odel, Majestic City and Liberty Plaza. They are equipped with Wi-Fi and invariably feature food courts where you can sample cos­mo­politan varieties. In addition, check out some of the popular stores like Paradise Road, for homeware; and Bare­foot, for handlooms.
Alternatively, visit bustling Pettah, a maze of criss-crossed lanes with different specialities on each street.
Main Street, for in­stance, is where the saree and shalwar-kam­eez shops are located. For gold and silver jewellery, go to Sea Street. For mobile pho­nes, go to Second Cross Street.
This city is also renowned for its thriving arts and culture scene. There are some extra-ordinarily talented artists, photographers, traditional dancers and fashion designers.
Most nights of the week, there is usually some­thing going on – from fashion shows featuring the latest Asian designs, to home-grown theatre troupes performing everything from Shakespeare to more experimental fare. There is also plentiful literary excellence en­cou­rag­ed by novelist Michael Ondaatje’s annual Gratiaen Prize.
Recently published English-language books are available in Sri Lanka – and they are very much cheaper than in Europe or North Ame­rica. The city’s major bookshops have a good selection of books on Sri Lanka, often in English, from contemporary no­­vels to fascinating reprints of historic and cultural volumes.
Lunch is always a difficult proposition, because there are so many restaurants and cafés to choose from. Many of them dish out cul­inary delights of global influences. Colo­mbo also has many celebrity chefs who specialise in just about everything including Sri Lankan, Indian, Italian and fusion cuisine.
At the end of the day, it is time to wind down by heading to the ever-regal, ever sophi­sti­cated Mount Lavinia Hotel or the Galle Face Hotel, both of which display impressive col­onial architecture and elegance. These two colonial-era properties offer stunning views of Colombo’s coa­st­line.
The sunsets are usually breath­taking. The­se hotels also dish out a delicious afternoon tea, which should not be missed!
A great way to spend the evening in Colombo is to visit the theatre. The Lionel Wendt is an institution in itself, the stomping ground of the artistic (and often flamboyant) men and women of Col­ombo since it was established in 1953. From plays and musical shows to art and photo exhibitions, this is the place to be if you want to experience the world of the arts in Sri Lanka. The Nelum Pokuna (Lotus Pond) Performing Arts Theatre is the city’s newest landmark and is a state-of-the-art facility with a floor area of 14,000 square metres.
For dinner, you are spoilt for choice as Colo­mbo has a number of top-class restaurants. Fresh seafood is freely available, whe­ther it’s in a refined dining setting or relaxed and informal under a thatched-roof. Some city hotels have even played host to royalty and sporting superstars over the years – with the signatures in their guest-books providing am­p­le proof of this.
And there are restaurants that serve every kind of cuisine imaginable from French and Italian, to Japanese, Indian and Thai. Eating out is a fa­vourite Colombo pastime and new restaurants open regularly.
Colombo also has many bars, pubs and clubs featuring talented bands playing Western rock, pop and jazz, as well as DJs playing the latest house, hip-hop and R&B tunes. Naturally, pe­ak activity is at weekends, but there is usually some attraction or the other on most nights.